Moab, Arches NP and Canyonlands

We drove north for a short distance to the bustling city of Moab, Utah - centre for all things action from canyoning, rafting and rock climbing - I felt slothful watching all these people running and riding and being quite early were able to venture into Arches NP for a great afternoon.  I liked the effect of the afternoon light on the very red, remarkable rocks.  We could be forgiven if we were canyoned-out after where we have been, but we enjoyed Arches just as much as all the others.  Overviewing the whole NP it was interesting how the features, including the massive naturally occuring arches, were clumped in unattached areas.  It was hard to comprehend that these features were made by water and winds.  I was able to take the usual 40 min trek to offset American food and enjoy the fresh air. 

To finish quite a relaxing day we enjoyed Italian take out from Pasta Jays which came recommended from guests at Valley of the Gods and certainly did not disappoint.

Canyonlands was on the agenda tomorrow morning and in particular Dead Horse Point I had read about and was high on my list of "must sees".  Canyonlands was probably our least favourite if we are going to rate them at all, but I could see that for active holiday makers it would have been perfect as the mountain biking and hiking was accessible for all levels with great diversity of trails.  Dead Horse Point was spectacular enabling a vista of a gooseneck of the Colorado River and the "canyonlands" for 360'.  I was able to trek out along the rim of the canyon in complete isolation - very peaceful and spectacular.

One highlight on our return to Moab was Shafer Canyon overlook where we ran into Lauri and Chuck from Valley of the Gods - what where the chances of that happening and it was like seeing old friends.  The feature was a road or trail into the bottom of the canyon immediately below where we were standing.  We watched in amazement as a couple of regular vehicles descended and ascended the presipices and switchbacks without any barrier for protection - more adreline junkies!  Our good weather continues and our road trip is coming to an end on Thursday.

Torrey, UT to Valley of the Gods

This is probably going to be our biggest drive east to Hanskville then south to Valley of the Gods on Highway 95, and I am in unfamiliar territory so excited at what lies ahead.

One interesting feature we encountered early in the trip is the Waterpocket Fold which defines Capital Reef NP.  Driving across it after reading all about the phenomenon saw  a complete change in the colour of the geology, now being dark grey instead of reds and blues.  And the fold was very obvious.  It was a weird experience and one I am going to read a little more about, but in the meantime, take a look for yourself.

The geography supporting 95 south was fairly uninteresting until we hit Glen Canyon which captures the eastern reaches of Lake Powell and the Colorado River.  It was spectacular and great to see the introduction of a large area of water.  We visited Natural Bridges NP shortly after and I was mostly interested in the Anasazi ruins visible from high on other side of the river snuggly still in place under the overhanging cliffs, untouched since 1000 AD - wonderful to see.

But nothing prepared us for what lay ahead.  I was aware we may encounter a small section of gravel road and the signs heading towards Mexican Hat warned of tight switchbacks.  We came upon this amazing section of road with an overlook which laid out in front of us, lands with mesas and buttes and cliffs that went as far as your eye could take you.  And directly below us was the Valley of the Gods B & B where we were headed.  With fear and trepidation I adhered to the recommended 15 miles per hour and headed down through the corners - it was over before I knew but was seriously in need of a drink to calm my nerves.  That was amazing and so glad I went down the hill not up, as the view was something I will never forget.

Valley of the Gods was fantastic.  Completely isolated in Utah desert literally at the doors edge - a very pretty stone settlers home with perfectly positioned verandah with lots of comfy chairs where we could sit and enjoy the setting sun with other guests, each with a bottle of red and lots of stories and recommendations to share.  We all had some leftovers for tea as the closest restaurant was too far away and way too uninteresting to entice us away from this idyllic setting.  The weather was so clear, the stars were huge and the next morning at sunrise, it was as I had dreamed and very hard to put into words.  Hosts Gary and Claire cooked a wonderful breakfast and farwelled everyone - I wish I was there for a week - a perfect place to reflect and unwind.

SCENIC BYWAY 12 - BRYCE CANYON TO TORREY, UTAH

Wow!  I had read a lot about these gazetted "scenic byways" - the all American roads and in particular this No. 12.  It surpassed anything I had been told.  Curious little towns; small farming pockets on canyon floors;  whole valley floors filled with golden trees; and canyon after canyon with this amazing road interconnecting them all.  But best of all was the road over Boulder Mountain.  We climbed to 10,000ft and watched in awe as hill sides of golden aspens appeared and went and revealed themselves again.  It was raining lightly making trunks and branches black only making them appear more yellow.  Snow sat on the crests of the Henry Mountains and we had about 10 miles of sleet when the temperature dropped to 41'F

Now we are in Torrey, Utah.  We managed to sneek a visit to Capital Reef NP, another wonder of the natural world.  More rain is expected and it was advised not to enter the park after rain as the road traverses river washes, where normally dry river beds turn into torrents.  The whole place was russet red and aqua from the copper laden rocks.

We were advised to dine at Cafe Diablo - listed in the "1,000 places to eat . . ." book.  Amazing - visitors materialised from I know not where as Torrey appeared to be deserted.  On Sunday night they were all at Diablo eating Rattle Snake cakes with cilantro pesto and aioli, or baby pork ribs all presented in the most artistic and creative fashion, especially by American standards.  And we were there too eating exactly that, with a magnificent silver margarita that was petite and delicious, thankfully (for both qualities).

BRYCE CANYON

I had not prepared my mother for the sight of Bryce but told her each of the parks was going to be totally different, and their reason for being were differing methods of erosion.

Bryce did not disappoint.  As the season is heading into winter, the sun was lower in the sky. Apart from sunrise, this is the best light in which to view the park.  It hightlights the various clusters of hoodoos bringing them to life.  It is a marvel of nature how with the uplifting of the land and the coursing of water and ice, this unique basin of semi human forms was been created.  It was breathtaking and all you can do is sit and look at it and try and take it in.

I did however take the 2.2mile hike to the canyon floor down 27 switchbacks, through tunnels and up again.  I felt invigorated and it went in a small way towards compensating for eating restaurant food.

The only down side of Bryce is that it is so accessible to large groups of people, that it is what you end up getting.  Thousands of them, and Ruby's Inn has pretty much captured the market of feeding them - a frenzy to say the least.  We enjoyed it none the less!

GRAND CANYON NORTH RIM

Traveling east and south from Utah back into Arizona brought back a lot of fond memories.  But unlike the summertime, the roadway was adorned on both sides by golden aspens in all their fall glory.  Everywhere lime green, indian yellow and some vermillion in various shades of turning before dropping leaves for the winter.  There were pockets where they had set a colony, invading spaces where pines had died and filling the gaps with their gorgeous colour.  Or just a single speciment - and when the wind blew lightly they shimmered in the sunlight.

There are few words to describe the sight of the Grand Canyon.  I sat and looked out at the path the Colorado river had taken for millions of years and the destruction it had caused on the land turning what was a flat plateau, into this impressive vista of valleys and cliffs.  And it was so close to me that it was like an illusion;  almost two dimensional but you could feel its presence in the wind on your face as it came up from the valley floor.  And although I was not alone, it was silent!  A wonderous place to have been.

ZION NATIONAL PARK

It is hard to imagine the diversity of impact of water, wind and ice on this land, that is going to be revealed over the next week starting with Zion National Park.  It is red, it is sheer and it is magnificent.  Best of all is it is accessible to everyone.  They have a system of shuttle buses that keeps traffic off the one road along the floor of the park, stopping at every vantage point.  It follows the course of the Virgin River up to where no road can go any further as the canyon narrows to only the width of the river.

Once again everyone is doing an activity from keen photographers waiting for sunrise or sunset;  hikers and rock climbers; or just some out for a stroll.  We easily spent 6 hrs in the canyon taking walks or just admiring the grandeur.  At night we caught the bus up and back and were shown star constellations and the milky way, as well as some deer and racoon.  There is a lot to enjoy here and it is well supported by the town of Springdale, Utah.

Best of all is the drive east on the Mt Carmel Highway towards the Grand Canyon.  A tunnel completed in the 1930's travels more than a mile through the mountain with windows along the way peering down and across to the sheer, red, sandstone cliffs.

YOSEMITE

Perfect sunny weather really set the tone for enjoying Yosemite.  Staying at the Blackberry Inn also enhanced our stay with hosts Steve and Alex making sure every detail was covered.  It was the Colombus celebration weekend and lots of people were in the park doing every imaginable activity and because the weather leading up to this weekend had been wet, the waterfalls, which are normally only a dribble at this time of the year, were really flowing.  Quite a sight - but best of all was that view from Glacier Point.  It was colossal! All around, granite domes and outcrops, waterfalls and the valley floor way below.  Very powerful stuff compelling you to return another day just to see if was all true.

We enjoyed lunch in the garden at the Awahnee Hotel right below Galcier Point.  It was warm and sunny and families readied themselves for various treks.  It was great to be surrounded by so much healthy activitiy.  And as we were leaving late in the afternoon, visitors everywhere were preparing for the sunset with cameras set and an air of expectation that something memorable was about to occur.  And it did not disappoint!